So, the second week in California was different than the first. Not as many movies--more California. THE SURF WAS UP!!! It was pretty much consistent for three weeks straight, in which I was able to take advantage of two of them. Good enough. I re-realized that I am in love with California and more importantly--surfing. The funniest thing is the lingo that I develop out of necessity. By this I mean survival in the line-up. I was able to have access to a secret spot that was run by crazy, control-freak locals. The only way to be accepted was to smile my smile, and respond to the wonderful language of the surfer; some linguists call it the second hardest language to learn in the world, the first being English. OK, seriously, here is the big news: I GOT A SERIOUS BARREL LAST THURSDAY! I know some of you are laughing at me right now, especially the east coast contingent, but it was awesome! AHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!! I'm freaking out just thinking about it!! Follow me . . .
This is from the car on the way to LAX the other day. AMAZING!
THis is from the plane. Also AMAZING!
Also from the car!
Ok, I don't know this dude but I like this shot. This was taken the afternoon of the serious tube I got in the morning. Then I went to have lunch with Mike Ross and PJ Kelly--two geniuses--and then went back for another session at Gladstones in Malibu. Nobody was surfing this point and I had these waves to myself. Unbelievable. They are kicking me out of the coffee shop where I am right now, so no more about surfing right now.
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